Lawyers, Escorts, Friends – and So-Called Elgin Marbles

28. Oktober 2023
There is still time left after I long day in London, so that I seize a tip by my English acquaintance Stan from back home. Relying on his years in the British capital he knew that having a drink in one of The Shard's bars would be cheaper than paying for "The View" experience straight up. Is there really a difference between the 31st 60th floor?  Plus: I'll get something to drink!

An Uncomfortable London View from the Sky

In line, I'm already uncomfortable, though. My queuing neighbors are wearing evening dresses and suits – there is a metal detector and a baggage screening. It all smells of low-level luxury and uninspired rendezvous. I wonder whether I'll get a seat without a reservation.
Up at "Aqua Shard"¹ I'm being ushered and placed by deliberate hostesses and waitresses. It takes seconds until I have a menu – and get an immediate chance to order a drink. I'm still overwhelmed by the view of nighttime London from a 31st floor – and forgot to take off my 12-year-old-and-5-times-repaired leather jacket. I tell the waitress I'm a non-drinker and order a non-alcoholic cocktail.
!B View from The Shard of London city at night.
London view from the Shard.
At a table in front of me, two women catch my eye. They are both marked by plastic surgery and seem to be plotting in some indiscernible way. It might have been just a very ill-informed guess by some very much uncomfortable guy – but minutes later a group of men in suits are seated at the table next to mine. One is older, fiftyish and already somewhat stout (from probably a lifetime of stressful office work). The other three look rather youngish; as if they were in the game long enough to be comfortable in here – but too short to be hosting this table themselves.

The Lawyers and Escorts of the Shard

The women are suddenly standing next to me in their plastic-surgery-meets-tight-and-revealing-evening-dress-glory and talking to the group. One woman excuses herself with the words "I'm off to meet another party – I'm already twenty minutes late, but I leave you in good hands." – The other, Trish (as I soon overhear), stays and shakes hands all around.
Trish doesn't really have an accent, it's more of a high-pitched tone she holds consistently that would – surprisingly – very rarely break. Her whole presence engages the men, she keeps their interests afloat, and gets their confidence pumped up. They explain their roles (or jobs) to her, which I believe to be law. One of them refers to a prominent case that he's been working on over the last couple of months. Trish is impressed, but not taken away.
Lawyer: "These are double D’s?" – Trish: "Of course they are!" – Other Lawyer: "There's a man who knows his tits."

The older man starts talking to Trish, rather makes a show of his prowess in front of the others by complementing her features and venting his pleasure. Sexism is now welcome and encouraged. For a while the younger men keep verbally circling Trish and her features: her breasts, her dress, and the quality of her friend (in relation) are debated with her. She handles it with an entertainer's verve and courage. Clearly, that much I understand now, this ordeal must be worth something to her which isn't obvious to me.
While the young men are debating Trish's body, sexuality, and living situation, the older one is ready to get into the action again. He had been busy ordering and talking to the waitress, but shifts his attention back to them. His right hand touches her back now, moves to her thigh and up the rear end. Trish is still seemingly unmoved, not openly worried (alone among them) – and doesn't appear to string together any sort of exit strategy.
Older Lawyer (grabbing attention of woman): "Hey, darlin'." – Trish: "Oh, hello darling!"
The vibe is killing me, though. "I want to pay!" I blurt out to a surprised passing waitress – suddenly my card is out and the jacket on. I take a last sweeping look at the London panorama before I find myself behind the elevator doors. We are five in there. One guy, probably in his mid-twenties, apparently coked-out-of-his-mind is threatening to start a fight with the man clutching his girlfriend on the other side of this tiny space. At this stage, I can't claim anymore I'm surprised. I rush out the building and into a very windy London night.

Laughter at London's Mercato Metropolitano

The next night in London is less windy, but covered in rain. I make my way through the damp air of The Borough to Foteini and Fabio at Mercato Metropolitano². We know each other from our memorable Barcelona ERASMUS days – and haven't seen each other in 10 unbelievably short years. The food is good, the beer too and soon we delight in the exuberance and joy of our common memories.
Seeing them, I feel nearly unrestrained pride. They both look more or less the same, they are honest, nice people – just as they were all those years ago. Means, I've made very good friends at that time – with every ERASMUS reunion something that's emphasized.
!B The sign at the Entrance of the Parthenon Galleries at the British Museum in London.
The Parthenon Galleries in the British Museum.
I pass on the story from the night before: "Escorts. They must've been," Foteini makes a point. "Because she didn't react when she got touched… that meant she was being paid." It’s not uncommon in these circles, I’m being told. Foteini’s female friend was working for JPMorgan for a while – and ended in the following situation during a regular office celebration: "You know, at one point they bring out the escorts. – And this guy from the office asked my friend whether she wanted to come with him. You see, there are still so few women that none of the men knew she was working with them." Foteini could make her peace with the fact that the escorts are doing her job and being paid. But, personally, I feel somewhat disgusted either way.

Britain and the So-Called Elgin Marbles

The following morning (my last day in London), I'm standing in front of the British Museum³ to see what they now call the "Elgin marbles" – after twenty years a very personal circle closes for me.
When I saw the heritage of Ancient Greece for the first time I was on the verge of being a teenager – there couldn't have been a worse time. My father had taken the whole family hostage in order to tour the nation, hopping from historical site to site. I wasn't impressed – tried my best not to be impressed. Something that worked well at the nearly undiscernible oracle of Delphi, but was impossible on the Athens acropolis in front of the withered Parthenon columns. The ruin, the view, the area is nothing but impressive – it stayed with me long past those days. I kept hammering my father on the temple' long-gone splendor, the attributed decorations, the supposed statues, the marble façade. Where is it all? Why are there only rocks to be seen? "It's all in England," my father told me. "Some English guy brought them to London hundreds of years ago."
!B View of the marbles at British Museum.
Elements of the frieze that decorated the Parthenon in Athens.
On the first floor, I am greeted with Egyptian statues and the famous "Rosetta stone." Although I dutifully make the rounds, I find myself hungry to advance to Pantheon gallery. Straight away, though, this "museum" is an absurdity. British raiders claiming to be archaeologists, excavators, keepers of ancient history – in fact, the theft of innumerable cultural artefacts is at display.
Seeing the marble gallery, then, is eerie. I'm getting chills, I'm feeling goosebumps – I cannot hide the anger from myself. I'm smitten by the beauty, the articulate craft of the remains. And I cannot comprehend how anybody would be, could be so daft as to carry it all the way to this rain-soaked, dark island up in the North Sea. It's unfair. This is Greek skill and finesse, Greek mastery and sophistication, Greek history. This is their gift to share, to be remembered for.
!B Egyptian mummies and sarcophagi at full display in the British Museum.
The insides of the Egyptian pyramids found behind glass walls in the British Museum.
If I were Egyptian the anger would soon fall into deep, melancholy despair. As I make the rounds through the 3rd floor I'm passing hundreds of square meters of Egyptian history. The gutted entrails of nearly 5.000 years of recorded history. Mummies, sarcophagi, richly embroidered coffins – all in rows, on blatant display.
It doesn't take long for me to be utterly tired. Fog rises in over the windings of my head. The body starts feeling numb. I sit down. Leaning my back against a wall in the Great Court for a longish while – staring at nothing and nowhere, listening to school children trying to move in rows. Their voices reverberating along the high walls.
¹ I had a non-alcoholic drink at Aqua Shard bar on the 31st floor.

² I had good Sri Lankan food stall grub and craft beer at Mercato Metropolitano: Elephant and Castle.

³ General admission to the British Museum is free. Although you have to pay for everything else (including the cloakroom)
PayPal
linkedin facebook pinterest youtube rss twitter instagram facebook-blank rss-blank linkedin-blank pinterest youtube twitter instagram